Jardin du Luxembourg: Postcard Perfect

There are a few places in Paris where time and space seem to merge into an idyllic, sepia-toned postcard. It seems it is often a combination of natural beauty, complementary architecture, and a perfect balance of activities and open space. The Jardin du Luxembourg is one of these places. This large garden on Paris' left bank is so-well landscaped that one must search to find all of the things that make it truly special. Within its fences, it hosts orchards of apple and pear trees, a puppet theater, a large playground for children, a beekeeping school, a large gazebo with free public performances, and a pond in which children sail model sailboats.

The chateau and garden were initially built for Marie de Medicis in 1615, though there have been many changes since its beginnings. Due to the large number of sculptures now found in the garden (French queens, Beethoven, and the first model of the Statue of Liberty, among others) it is sometimes called the outdoor museum. In addition, exhibitions are posted on the exterior of the garden fence several times a year-- "small talk" among Parisians is often whether or not they've seen the latest exhibition and what they thought of it.

While sailing model boats around the pond is perhaps the most well-known past time in the garden, I've spent significantly more time in the playground, which has play areas for nearly every age group. It is a fantastic space that enables children to run free for a few minutes in the City of Lights-- a perfect afternoon escape. Note that there is an entrance fee, though it is quite reasonable. Also, if you plan to leave and return later in the day, get your hand stamped for re-entry. (Note: By contrast, the puppet theater is a bit more expensive and not nearly as impressive-- it is a fun activity if you have time to spend, but otherwise I'd skip it.)

While the children are playing in the garden, perhaps you can take a minute and write that sepia-toned postcard. Just make sure you keep it with you as a souvenir for years to come.

Jardin du Luxembourg

Price: 2,60 euros/child, 1,60 euros/adult
Address: 75006 Paris
Metro: Odeon, Cluny-La Sorbonne or Pont Royal (RER B)

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Cite des Enfants/ Parc de la Villette

This "City of Children" as it's called contains a wide variety of child-focused activities- cinemas, parks, a science museum, a mini aquarium, and even a concert venue. Like most family venues in Paris, you buy a separate ticket to each activity, though they do coordinate it so you only need pay once.

The highlight for the under 12s is the Cite des Enfants, a hands-on science museum where various rooms enable children to conduct their own experiments on water, wind, movement, etc. You purchase a ticket to either the 2-7 year olds' museum or the 5-12 year olds' museum. The tickets are timed, so you line up in a queue and once you are in, you have about an hour to explore the space.

There is also a larger science museum which older kids find interesting. At this time there is a Crime Lab exhibition which encourages kids to use science to do their own detective work. There are also exhibits on the human genome, energy consumption, and the effects of light and shadows. In addition there is are movie theaters featuring science-related shows, the IMAX movie theater, a large park with a few playground spaces and a small aquarium.

While the newer spaces are well-done and up-to-date, the older areas are beginning to look a bit dated. In addition, I found the queue spaces to be lacking in things to keep kids interested, which is disappointing. If you are in Paris for more than a week, it may be nice to let the kids air out a bit at this child-focused venue. There are a variety of restaurants/cafes on site for easy access (though the Quick across the square has a substantial play space). If you're here for less than a week, however, it seems a waste of time to leave the city to do something you could do at home (it is basically an all day event- similar to Versailles- up to 2 hours travel time round trip).

Cite des Enfants/ Parc de la Villette
01.40.03.75.75

Address: Avenue Corentin-Cariou, 19th
Metro: Porte de la Villette

Map:

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The Perfect Guide to Paris- Time Out

I am generally not one to subscribe to the idea of a guidebook. I find that my ideas/tastes are sometimes different than those of the writers and I end up spending my precious time in a new location discovering someone else's idea of what is interesting. In addition, the guidebooks generally present much more information than I have time-- or desire-- to read (I don't have that much information about my hometown!) and I then have to lug all 200+ pages in my handbag while I travel. All that said, there is one guidebook that I readily recommend to everyone who asks. It is the TimeOut Paris guide, an annual publication available for $6.95 (7.99 euros). Inside, the magazine presents a detailed description, along with contact information and updated hours. It's all broken down into five basic categories:

- Sightseeing (by area)
- Consuming (restaurants, cafes, and bars)
- Arts & Leisure (cabaret, children's activities, music, nightlife, etc.)
- Hotels
- Essentials (resources and emergency information)

In addition, the back pages contain a full-page size metro map for easy viewing, a separate map showing the layout of the arrondisements in Paris, and more specific street-maps to be found on the pages describing the area they represent. The magazine is well layed-out, lightweight, informative, and generally well-written.

If you are looking for a keepsake, I recommend buying the TimeOut guide and a separate book of photography after you return (that way it doesn't add to your luggage weight on the return trip!). Either way, be sure to have this handy when you step off the plane. It will leave you informed, save you time, and keep you from needing a chiropractor's appointment after your trip!

Note: There is a separate TimeOut Paris book, which covers the same information, but costs more and is heavier to carry around. I prefer the magazine.

A (mini) Pot of Gold: Inspired Honey

The Opera Garnier is famous for many things. It is stunningly beautiful-- a tribute to the arts in every possible way. It's beauty is captured in paintings by artists like Degas (who used to attend regularly). Somewhat lesser known is that the story "Phantom of the Opera" is set here because the building sits atop a small reservoir. Even lesser known is that the Opera is home to a school of trout and several hives of bees.

As the story goes, it was several years ago that then-prop man at the opera, Jean Paucton, was looking for a place to keep his new beehive until he could get it to his country house. He apparently asked his friend, who worked on the Opera's fire brigade and was raising a school of trout under the opera house (I couldn't make this up if I tried!), for advice. The gentleman recommended putting the hive on the roof. Mr. Paucton was reticent as he was unsure where the bees would find pollen, but he had no choice. He returned the next week to find the hive overflowing with honey-- significantly more full, in fact, than hives get in the countryside! The hive has continued growing for more than 25 years now and he now has over 75,000 bees residing in 5 hives, collecting more than 1,000 pounds of honey per year.

The honey is said to be especially fragrant as these bees have access to Paris' most prestigious gardens. From the flowers of the French "White House" to the Jardin Tuileries and even as far as the Bois de Bologne, the bees collect pollen throughout the city and return to produce mini pots of gold (available for sale in the Opera shop and at the gourmet food shop Fauchon).

After hearing about the bees for some time, I decided to try to find the honey. I marched over to Fauchon and paid dearly for my 125 grams of "gold." I have to say, though, that in the end, it tastes like honey. Perhaps it is a little more floral, perhaps a little sweeter even, but the thing I like about it most is that it is a little taste of heaven from what must be some of the most inspired bees on Earth. I wonder how the trout made out...

An Out of Body Experience: A Corps Ouvert

Walking in to the controversial exhibition in a private gallery space in Paris, I was curious as to what I would find inside. The exhibition is posted on buses and billboards throughout the city, and at this point, the basic concept is fairly well known. The exhibition features the human body-- using actual human bodies-- to show the inner workings and intricate systems we use everyday but never see.

I've always been fascinated by the human body. From the way the organs form to the sophisticated way in which the systems interact, it all seems impossible, yet it works.

The first body you see when walking in is laying down, encased in plexiglass-- a very comfortable way to begin. The body is cut at 1 cm intervals and laid out so you can see the bones, veins, tendons, etc. as they move through the body. It was very artistically displayed and extremely interesting. The second body, however, stands before you, like you could have a conversation with it, and I was suddenly acutely aware that, at one point, this was a person who did stand next to people and have conversations-- something much more disturbing to me. It took me a few minutes to come to terms with what I was seeing. I developed an intense respect for each of the figures before me, something not usually required in an art exhibit. As I went through the rest of the show, I read every sign and reviewed every display in an earnest desire to understand all I could from what these people had given me the opportunity to learn.

About 2/3 of the way through the exhibition, however, I was jarred back into reality when I saw the cranium of a small child. I can understand the concept of giving your own body to art and education (as odd as it seems), but as a mother I could not come to grips with how you would willingly give the body of your child to anyone. I was shocked and disappointed that it was included, especially since it didn't seem to add anything to the show-- certainly the points could have been made without it.

I left the exhibition extremely contemplative, intrigued, appalled, feeling challenged, and yet somehow inspired. I don't know that I would actively recommend the exhibition (as I think everyone should decide their comfort level for themselves), but if you're interested, know that it is artistic, informative and I am grateful to have had the opportunity to see it... this unforgettable, out-of-body experience.